The word brunch brings to mind outdoor seating, avocado toast and the classic eggs benedict. But it’s not all bacon and egg sandwiches. Mornings in Indianapolis can be a nuanced cultural mosaic of breakfast foods. From Egyptian ful and Salvadoran baleadas to Indian vadais and dosas, there’s a world of breakfast and brunch to be discovered right here in Indy.
La Parada Indianapolis
🇲🇽 Mexican
📍 1642 E New York St.; 317-917-0095
An east-side staple, La Parada is an explosion of color inside an otherwise rather neutral strip mall. The menu is as vibrant as the interiors, with a catch — La Parada opens at 10 a.m., which means if you’re craving breakfast later in the day, you’re in luck. Choose from an array of chilaquiles, with or without steak and eggs, and an assortment of breakfast burritos, as well as huevos done eight different ways.
La Guanaquita
🇸🇻 Salvadoran
📍5435 38th St.; 317-273-0190
Say “Salvadoran,” and the food that comes to mind is pupusas — typically a housemade maize tortilla stuffed with cheese, beans or meat (or all three) and served with curtido, a spicy cabbage slaw. Pupusas can definitely make for a great breakfast, but at La Guanaquita, breakfast is so much more. Starting at 9 a.m. daily, you can choose tamales, baleadas, huevos estrellados and platano, or plantain, dishes.
Mexico City Kitchen
🇲🇽 Mexican
📍 6144 W. 25th St.; 317-992-8453
You might have to brush up on your Spanish to order at Mexico City Kitchen — but it’ll be well worth it. From the more popular chilaquiles and huevos rancheros to more unusual, hearty finds like huevos al gusto and molletes de chorizo, you can start your day off with a feast as early as 9 a.m. here.
Imbi Restaurant
🇲🇾 Malaysian
📍7624 S Meridian St. # 1; 317-300-0330
Although many Hoosiers may be unfamiliar with Malaysian food, Imbi offers first-timers an approachable introduction: fried bread with eggs and honey for dipping. Once you’ve tried it, you’ll be tempted to explore the many cultural influences that impact this cosmopolitan cuisine, from the Indian-inspired puri and yellow split peas on the breakfast menu to the Malaysian versions of Thai and Chinese dishes on the lunch and dinner menu.
Oh, and if you’re looking for a spot in Indianapolis to get your nasi lemak fix — well, you’ve found it.
Taste of Yemen
Middle Eastern
📍4672 W. 38th St.; 317-746-6966
The International Marketplace on the northwest side is a treasure trove. One-of-a-kind grocery goodies line the aisles, almost like collectors’ items that you’d be tempted to stock up on and trade for a markup.
But its golden gem is one that’s even more hidden than the rest: Taste of Yemen, an unassuming Middle Eastern spot that offers shakshuka, lahm sugar, or cubed, spiced lamb served with vegetables and fresh pita, and foul, a 100% eggless breakfast that gets its punch of protein from, that’s right, fava beans. And what better way to start your day than with a plate of freshly fried falafels?
Almost Famous
🇪🇸 Spanish
📍 721 Massachusetts Ave.; 317-986-7877
Almost Famous on Mass. Ave is, well, “almost famous” for many things: its legendary happy hour, for one. The drag shows hosted there are equally legendary, and boy, can they make a mean espresso martini.
But few know that Almost Famous opens daily at 8 a.m. And sure, while breakfast here can mean the standard fare of avocado toast and biscuits and gravy, it’s the perfect chance to try one of the house specials, from a tortilla de patatas and flaming eggs, or huevos a la flamenca, to a true Spanish breakfast sandwich, colloquially called a bocadillo.
If you really want to get fancy, splurge on the torrijas — Almost Famous’ interpretation of French toast, Spanish-style.
A Cup of Chai
🇮🇳 North Indian
📍1028 Shelby St.; 317-998-4463
Talk to any self-respecting North Indian from Kolkata, Jaipur, Mumbai, Delhi or any of the beautiful northern or northeastern Indian states, and they’ll all tell you the same thing: you must — must — start each day with a steaming hot cup of chai.
And it doesn’t hurt that this Fountain Square establishment offers more than just chai to start your day: pair your cup with some popular street eats like malai parantha, a flaky flatbread drizzled with condensed milk, or bun maska, the Indian way to get your bread-and-butter.
Oh, and if you’re down with a cold? No better time to try their haldi dudh, an old Ayurvedic remedy for the cold, cough, flu, you name it. And did we mention it’s delicious?
Madurai Virundhu
🇮🇳 South Indian
📍4150 Lafayette Road; 317-297-3050
When I spoke to Madanlal Bathe five years ago at the start of COVID, getting his two cents on the state of Indian buffets in this new, socially distanced world, I had no idea he was planning on rebranding.
That being said, there’s no one happier than I that he did, renaming Lafayette Square’s India Sizzling to Madurai Virundhu, a tribute to one of my favorite South Indian cities. The menu may not expressly have a “breakfast section,” but items like idly, sambar vada, and dosa are actually commonly eaten for breakfast in India. And it’s all available as part of the establishment’s lunch buffet, on offer every day (except Mondays) from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Hanna’s Banh Mi & Cafe
🇻🇳 Vietnamese
📍8510 Center Run Drive; 317-685-9999
If you live in Indianapolis and have heard of banh mi, it’s probably not in the breakfast context. A food that has gained fame in North America over the past decade, the banh mi is a beautiful coming together of cured meats, pickled veggies, fresh herbs and some of the most pillowy baguettes you’ve ever bitten into.
A product of French influence on Vietnam during World War 1, the banh mi is often what Vietnamese people use to start their day. Accompanied by a bright iced coffee, sweetened with condensed milk, the breakfast banh mi at Hanna’s Banh Mi & Cafe incorporates today’s most valuable commodity, fried eggs, into the sandwich.
Not ready to forego your morning croissant? Not to worry — you can switch the baguette out for a croissant at 10 a.m. on a weekend or 11 a.m. on a weekday. It might become your new go-to-brunch.
Awet Major
🇪🇷 Eritrean and 🇪🇹 Ethiopian
📍855 N. High School Road; 317-222-4020
I often give one of my best friends a lot of grief for choosing Ethiopian food as her favorite cuisine. Not because it’s not delicious and warming from the inside out, but because it so, so closely resembles our homemade South Indian cooking.
And yet, there’s something charming about it, from the spongy injera that sops up the many vegetarian and vegan curries that the cuisine offers, to the steaming cups of tea that start and eat the meal. But Awet, unlike many other Ethiopian restaurants, offers a breakfast menu, as well.
Starting at 9 a.m. every day, it promises a great start to your day with kita firfir, or spiced pancakes, and a hearty Ethiopian crepe stuffed with marinated beef cubes, called qunta firfir. If you’re looking for something simple, look no further than its gonfo, a savory play on porridge that sings of berbere spice.
Canal Bistro
Mediterranean
📍6349 Guilford Ave.; 317-254-8700
Canal Bistro, Broad Ripple’s well-established Mediterranean eatery that’s named for its canalside patio, has quite the fanbase in Indianapolis. The dream of owners George and Mona Hanna, it’s a celebration of their heritages, a coming together of delicacies from Egypt and Lebanon alike.
But few know that on weekends you can luck into a gyros burrito, a plate of falafel and eggs, and even a stack of baklava-stuffed French toast for brunch. And if you’re looking for something straight from the owners’ homelands, they’ve got a vegan-friendly “fool” breakfast that is anything but a peasant dish.
Good Morning Mama’s
🇮🇹 Italian-inspired
📍1001 E 54th St.; 317-255-3800
I recently visited Good Morning Mama’s and was taken by three things: One, how bright everything is, from the painted patio to the restaurant’s vibrant interiors; two, the diverse menu offerings, from traditional American-style diner finds to eggs in purgatory, a dish that takes roots in Italy; and three — perhaps the most telling of all — the hospitality.
I imagine that brunching at nonna’s would feel no different, and with the opportunity to eat Pasta a la Mama at 8 a.m. while also traveling to the islands with their play on Hawaiian Loco Moco, Good Morning Mama’s makes you believe that anything is possible.
Heidelberg Haus
🇩🇪 German
📍7625 Pendleton Pike; 317-547-1230
If you’ve ever been to a European Christmas market, then Heidelberg Haus may remind you of that heartwarming experience, just … indoors. Featured during Food Network’s yesteryears, Gabi and Jurgen Jungbauer opened the shop to regale Indianapolis natives with all things German, complete with a full-service German bakery selling pfeffernuss and danishes to “good-quality German rye breads and laugen pretzels.”
If you fancy something more savory, all varieties of German bratwursts are available, from spreadable sausage to smoked frankfurters. And you can even grab an antique souvenir on your way out.
Dad’s Kitchen
🇵🇪 Peruvian
📍6336 Guilford Ave.; 317-989-6209
Another Broad Ripple gem, not much is known about Dad’s Kitchen. What is known, however, is how good the food is. A short walk away from Broad Ripple Park, Dad’s Kitchen opens as early as 9 on weekdays. But if you really want to beat the hungry crowds, snag one of the first tables at 7:30 a.m. on a Saturday or Sunday.
Sit down to breakfast tacos with a kick, chilaquiles sprinkled with queso añejo, or even a satiating spread of Peruvian breakfast favorites like lomo saltado, arroz chaufa, or Peruvian fried rice and freshly fried tostones.
Don Juan V’s Sandwiches
🇵🇪 Peruvian
📍3720 E Raymond St.; 317-377-4677
Don Juan V’s serves Peruvian sandwiches filled with cuts of delicious meats. But if you’re a real Don Juan’s loyalist, you’ll know that the true diamond is the Peruvian tamal, served either solo or as part of a truly magnificent Peruvian breakfast platter called desayuno, pairing the tamal with chicharrones, deep-fried sweet potato, bread and salsa criolla.
Lavanya Narayanan is a Mirror Indy freelance contributor. You can reach her at lavanya24narayanan@gmail.com.
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